Here are some finished photos. If you’ve got here via all the construction pages, I hope you found them interesting and useful.


26 thoughts on “Photos

  1. Amazing! Any chance of a copy of the CAD drawings ? I’m a joiner and would love to build this but can’t do CAD , I would happily send you a donation!

      • Hi Nick,

        It was awesome to hear that you’ve taken the bike on centuries and that frame is still kicking! 8000 ft of climbing on a singlespeed would be way too much for me. really cool that you were able to do it all in your living room, too!

        I was wondering if you had looked at all into the possibility of using a belt drive system? And if so, what methods you might use of placing a break in the rear seatstay? A friend and I are very interested in making a belt-drive single speed for fun. I was also wondering if might get a look at your CAD drawings.

        North Carolina

      • Hi Chris, thanks for the message and sorry for the slow reply. A split in the rear stay would be easy. You have to connect metal drop outs to the stays anyway so it wouldn’t require much of a change to allow them to be unbolted. Mine were bolted and glued but there’s no reason why you couldn’t do it without the glue. Or even provide the split in the drop out itself so the connection would be metal to metal. Have a look at other belt drive frames. I’ve seen it done lots of different ways. Cheers Nick

  2. What’s the weight of the frame? That is SO pretty and amazing! I do like Renovo bikes, but too expensive. 😉

    • Hi
      The frame is heavier than I’d planned and comes in at 2.5kg frame only. It is very stiff though. I’m aiming to get the next one down to below 2kg but maintain close to the same stiffness as this frame by altering the proportions of the tubes. The Renovo’s may be expensive but after you’ve built one you’ll appreciate the effort that goes in!

  3. It looks even better in the flesh .. nice to meet you at Richmond Park this morning. Might have a go at doing this myself!!!

  4. Thank you so much for this, I am going to attempt a mountain bike.
    One thing I am unclear on is exactly how you used the router to shape the various round areas, any further explanation would be much appreciated.
    Thank you

  5. that bike looks so sickkk! its really inspired me, do you think it would be possible for me to try and make a bike like this for my a level?

    • Of course. I’ve had messages from people all round the world wanting to build one for a school final year project. Some have turned out really nicely. It’ll take some time and you’ll find the wood is a lot more expensive than you expect unless you have a good source.
      All well within anyone’s capabilities if you’ve got access to a workshop. Drop me an email with any questions. Cheers Nick

  6. Hi. Very nice bike, web page, and message chain. I am similarly contemplating building a bike, being inspired by the Renovo bikes, but wanting to try building one myself. I have a fairly extensive workshop, so I think much of the construction is doable. However, I have 3 questions/issues. It looks like most people install a metal head tube and bottom bracket prior to installing the headset and bottom bracket. Do you think you could just press fit the headset and bottom bracket into the wooden frame? Also, dropouts. I assume you didn’t buy yours, but had them made somewhere? Oops. Sorry. I have a fourth one as well. I would like to extend the wooden seat post right to the base of the seat, but would need some type of fitting that mounted to the top of the seat post allowing one to attach the seat. All thoughts/comments eagerly welcomed.

    • Hi David
      I’m sure that’s only 3 questions!
      1. You could press fit the BB and headset into the wood but the wood would eventually split/ expand and become very dangerous…. which wouldn’t be ideal when you’re tearing down a hill. An alu head tube is about 2-3mm thick at the point where you press the bearings into it. So extrapolating that out to a section wood being stressed perpendicular to the grain (which is awful) that would need to be about 75mm thick before it was a similar strength! Don’t do it!

      2. I cut the drop outs from a sheet of aluminium using a hacksaw, drill and files.

      3. Find a frame with an integrated seat post. Buy the seat post and shape the top of the wooden seatpost to fit the inside of the clamp.
      Like these:

      You won’t get much adjustment like this so measure twice cut once!

      As with my previous answer, here comes the warning. Forces on seat posts are quite big and seat posts tend to be small. I have not done any numbers and cannot advise on how to build up the wooden seatpost extension but I would have thought it will have to be mostly solid to avoid cracking it.

      Hope that helped

  7. wow, amazing build, I’m loving how this turned out, i too was a fan of the renovo and Craftsman Chin frames, i really liked the Chin frame v2 which isn’t unlike this one albeit he laminates his in a horizontals as opposed to the vertical laminate you went for.
    I’d love to get hold of the cad drawings for this frame, what size does it equate out to? I’m 5ft10 and that’s i think an 18″ frame in new money. I’ve already started on amassing all the paraphernalia required for such an epic build. Would love to know more

    Did you ever look at rear derailleur options at the back as i noticed you went fixie?

    Keep up the good work!!

    • rear derailleur would be easy, just include a fixing for a mech hanger on the drop out. For my current build i’ve got a removable mech hanger screwed onto my drop out. Front mech hanger needs a little more thought and very careful setting out as frames are much more sensitive to this.

      Where are you based?


      • i’m based in buckinghamshire, Doon Sooth 🙂
        I understand how you attached it now, i’ve had a few bikes i’ve repaired in the past where the mech hanger is the sacrificial part to save the frame droput and mech from further damage, and have had to craft a few. I’ve part machined the dropouts up already as the QR Hub diameter is an industry standard.

  8. Nick – I really love your bike. Excellent job with it and great job documenting it. I am planning on making a wood frame now. I just completed the frame design. Your site will really help me out as there are not many sites yet on wood frame building. Thanks.

  9. this is amazing !! I am thinking of building my own wooden mtb frame. first i dont know how to begin, so i gave up. but today i discoverd your website, and wow! i have everything i need to build it THANKS !! is is for light XC mountainbike, so i think i wil make a frame with 8 mm wall thickness and the tubes for arround 60 mm thick. i dont care for a + 5 kg frame, if the frame is 5 kg. the bike wil be total of 12 kg with suspension front fork. perfect for me 🙂

    any tips for a good strong mtb frame are welcome ! ( sorry for the bad english, am from the netherlands )

    • Hi
      Thanks for the message. Sounds like a cool project. The thickness of the tubes depends on the species of wood that you’re planning on using as there’s a big variation in material properties. 8mm sounds quite conservative and should work for most though. What sort of wood are you planning on using?

      Full sus or hard tail?

  10. i love to make a fully, but it is to complicated. ( maybe next project ) i have very little experience with wood. i wil go for a 26er hardtail with 100 mm front fork. and wide 2.4 inch tyres. wich wood i wil use, depends on what wood i can buy here. i prefer dark and dense wood

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